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Discussing all things Nerf


    A favor to ask

    Slayer_of_OnE
    Slayer_of_OnE
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    Location : Naperville, IL, 60532
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    A favor to ask Empty A favor to ask

    Post  Slayer_of_OnE on Thu Jan 29, 2009 6:53 pm

    I need somebody to copy and paste Ompa's New nerfer guide on NH. it is for a school project, and I would greatly appreciate it.

    Plus, you get +1 pure winnage!

    Thank you , and Happy Nerfing,

    -So1


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    cannotaim
    cannotaim
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    Number of posts : 127
    Age : 25
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    Post  cannotaim on Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:03 pm

    Slayer_of_OnE wrote:I need somebody to copy and paste Ompa's New nerfer guide on NH. it is for a school project, and I would greatly appreciate it.

    Plus, you get +1 pure winnage!

    Thank you , and Happy Nerfing,


    -So1

    this?



    What is Modding, and why should I mod my Nerf guns?
    Modding is the process of making your Nerf gun better. Mods usually consist of a barrel replacement, plugging the overpressure release valve (in pump guns), and replacing springs (in cocking guns). Modding Nerf guns drastically increases the performance of the gun itself, increasing the range anywhere from 2-20 times the original range of the gun.

    What’s the Best Gun?
    There is NO such thing as the “Best Gun”. Every gun has it’s weaknesses or strengths. While there are many guns that have achieved a somewhat “legendary” status, it really does not mean that the gun will be enable a player to beat everyone else. Guns that are often put in this category are the Crossbow and Lock’n’Load. While these two guns are excellent, they aren’t going to help you win games if you can’t shoot worth jack shit. Remember, the player makes the gun. Unless you are using a slingshot outdoors; that’s different.

    What are Stefans?
    Stefans are homemade darts. They are made using foam backing rod (FBR) that can be found at most local hardware stores, weight (everything from tacks, steel shot, and bb’s), and a dome of hot glue. Well-made stefans, when coupled with the correct barrel, will put almost any stock dart to shame in terms of performance. For an excellent guide to making Stefans, go here.

    What gun should I buy first?
    This is a changing topic at all times, as some guns may not be available to people at certain times. However, as of now, the Airtech 2000 and Nitefinder offer excellent performance once modded, for cheap prices. The Airtech 2000 twin pack is now around $12, while the Nitefinder is $6.

    What are Integrations?
    Integrations are when the innards of one gun are placed into the shell and innards of another gun. Integrations offer the chance for a gun’s weakness to be compensated for through the addition of another weapon. For example, the Rapidfire20 is a fully automatic weapon with poor range. Several people will integrate an Airtech 2000 or an Supermaxx750 (both long-range guns) into the Rapidfire20 in order to give the gun long-range capabilities. Many support integrations, while some decry them. To read more, go
    http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1615

    Why does Cxwq own my mom?
    He owns your mom, you, and your cat. Oh, and your sister too.





    Barrels
    There are many different types of barrels out there; all of them will go with different dart sizes. The basic barrel types usually correspond to the different dart types:
    Mega Stefans/ Stock Micros
    -SCH40 PVC (1/2 inch)
    Micro Stefans
    -SCH 80 PVC (1/2 inch)
    -Copper Tubing
    -Brass
    -Cpvc

    Also, different barrel setups such as a breech barrel, nested barrel, and your regular barrel are all different barrels that can be used in a mod.

    Breech Barrel
    Often times it’s just a pvc coupler glued onto the air chamber that allows a barrel to be put on/removed quickly.

    Nested Barrel
    Mostly done with Brass, it involves a small piece of 17/32 glued/stuck in the back of the main barrel, which is usually 9/16. This is good for spring guns. It’s called a nested barrel because the 17/32 ends up pretty much entirely surrounded by the 9/16 brass and you won’t be able to see the majority of it. Or, you can glue the 17/32 brass on the air chamber in the middle of a coupler (breech barrel), and put the 9/16 brass into 1/2inch SCH40 PVC so that the SCH40 PVC attaches to the coupler and the 9/16 brass slides over the 17/32 brass.

    Regular Barrel
    Just a nice, straight barrel
    Keep in mind that if making Stefans, dart diameter may vary, and different sizes of barrels may need to be purchased. The MOST important feature of barrels is the dart/barrel fit. You are best off to bring a dart you have made to the store and test which barrel material it fits best in. This is why I did not list the sizes in the original list for copper, brass, and cpvc.





    Darts
    Many types of darts are used, including mega Stefans, micro Stefans, and stock micros. With modifications, arrows and stock megas are rarely used. The Stefan is the homemade dart, which can be made by following the instructions here.




    Basic Modification
    Almost all modifications consist of the same components; a barrel replacement, plugging the overpressure release valve (pump guns), and replacing the spring (cocking guns). The choice of darts to be used, range desired, and availability of materials will determine the extent and type of mod to be done. However, here is a general rule of thumb when doing modifications:

    Spring Guns:
    -A nested barrel usually works well in spring guns, mainly due to the fact that most spring guns release air slowly, and a nested barrel allows for pressure to build up behind the dart before the dart comes out of the barrel. This increases velocity which in turn increases range.
    -A spring replacement is in line for almost every cocking gun. It will increase the range, but sometimes at risk of decreasing the durability of the gun. Re-enforcement using metal strips is possible to prevent or fix your gun in the event of a problem with breaking.
    -Lubing the plunger is NOT a dirty thing, it just will increase the effectiveness of the plunger. Don’t use petroleum based lubricants, as they will eat through the rubber. Silicone grease is a good lubricant.

    Pump Guns:
    -Usually a smooth, non-nested barrel is the way to go here. Pump guns release all the air fast, so there is usually no benefit to using a nested barrel.
    -Plugging the release valve; the release valve is often located at the end of the pump. Plugging it increases the amount of pressure the gun will take, but at the risk of blowing your air chamber. Use caution when determining how many pumps to use on the gun.




    Topic No-no's
    To make this simple: Do NOT double post, there is an edit button for a reason.
    Do NOT post topics about what's the best gun.
    Do NOT post topics in which you lie about your ranges.
    Do NOT use horrible grammer
    Do NOT post a topic about having no idea what the fuck Nerf is about
    Slayer_of_OnE
    Slayer_of_OnE
    Admin

    Number of posts : 145
    Age : 26
    Location : Naperville, IL, 60532
    Registration date : 2008-12-11

    A favor to ask Empty Re: A favor to ask

    Post  Slayer_of_OnE on Fri Jan 30, 2009 7:21 am

    Thanks a ton Cna. I really needed this. I am passing it off as an interview with a nerf specialist!

    I will leave it here until after school, as I have no time to copy/paste it right now onto a word document.

    Once again, thank you, and happy nerfing!

    -So1


    _________________
    Have any suggestions for Nerflovers? Drop me a PM

    Also, be sure to put links in your NH signatures!
    Slayer_of_OnE
    Slayer_of_OnE
    Admin

    Number of posts : 145
    Age : 26
    Location : Naperville, IL, 60532
    Registration date : 2008-12-11

    A favor to ask Empty Re: A favor to ask

    Post  Slayer_of_OnE on Thu Feb 05, 2009 5:09 pm

    Double-freakin'-post!

    The expectations for my project just increased, and I need 2 internet sources for nerf modification. Obviously, I would love for these to be from NH. So, what I am asking any active user on this site (and thanks again Cna) : Can you copy/paste modding basics (I think by joeyagrll...maybe), and also, can you copy/paste a good NF write-up? Not too complicated, but still good. I would do this myself, but I was a retard and got myself suspended until July...Oh, and I need this by monday. Also, just for the bibliographical purposes, I need the URL (link) for the topics at NH. Thank you again... I'll find out a way to repay you....

    -So1


    _________________
    Have any suggestions for Nerflovers? Drop me a PM

    Also, be sure to put links in your NH signatures!
    cannotaim
    cannotaim
    Member

    Number of posts : 127
    Age : 25
    Registration date : 2008-12-27

    A favor to ask Empty Re: A favor to ask

    Post  cannotaim on Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:13 pm

    Slayer_of_OnE wrote:Double-freakin'-post!

    The expectations for my project just increased, and I need 2 internet sources for nerf modification. Obviously, I would love for these to be from NH. So, what I am asking any active user on this site (and thanks again Cna) : Can you copy/paste modding basics (I think by joeyagrll...maybe), and also, can you copy/paste a good NF write-up? Not too complicated, but still good. I would do this myself, but I was a retard and got myself suspended until July...Oh, and I need this by monday. Also, just for the bibliographical purposes, I need the URL (link) for the topics at NH. Thank you again... I'll find out a way to repay you....
    It

    -So1
    Its ok because we basically have the whole site to ourselves.Here you are:



    Modding Basics

    A lot of people have trouble modding. They look at some of the seemingly more structured write-ups, and think "How do they do it that good? Mine looks like crap!" It's really not that hard. There are some simple rules and things you can do to help your modding process out.

    First off, the location. You want a hard surface, but something that is okay to get scratched up. If need be, put a block of plywood down or something to protect it. Also, you're going to want a seat, because you may be here for awhile. A light is something good to have, too. If you are doing excessive gluing/painting, you may want to find a well ventilated area to do this. A heater or fan to control temperature is a good idea. You want to be comfortable. Good places for modding are workbenches in your garage or basement, or on a desk.

    Materials. There are a couple of key things you will need. One is a Dremel, or other rotary tool. This small power tool will work wonders. Grab some spare parts to it. Also, a hot glue gun with plenty of spare glue. A multi-temp gun is a good investment. A surge protector may be needed for excessive tools. Okay,
    onto the list of items: You should get various sizes of screwdrivers, needle nosed pliers, scissors, wire-cutters, duct tape, electrical tape, epoxy, Plumber's Goop, a ruler, spare rags/cloth, rubber bands, and a few knives. Also, keep several kinds of
    pipe/tubing on hand. 1/2"schd. 40 PVC, 1/2" CPVC, a few 1/2" PVC couplers, and some vinyl tubing. All of the above is available at a Lowes or Home Depot, or similar hardware store, for low costs. If you can get your hands on it, find some brass tubing. Sold at most hobby stores, get a few feet, as it's sold in foot long intervals for about $2.50. The sizes you are most likely to work with are 17/32" and 9/16".

    Now, you don't need everything above, but having it all will help. If you are going to record your work, you may want to get a paper and pencil to write your process down. If you have one, use a digital camera. Pictures are always nice, and a good set of pictures will always improve your mod write-up.

    Onto the actual basics of modifying Nerf blasters. I'll divide it into two sections, air powered and spring powered blasters. Air powered guns have pumps and air tanks that hold the air until you release it by pulling the trigger. Spring guns have springs, plungers, and plunger tubes inside, and compress a spring with the plunger backwards, lock it in place, then release it when you shoot. First, a few basics. After you unscrew the gun, place a towel or cloth over the gun as you remove the case. This way, anything that flies out doesn't go shooting across the room. Hopefully, nothing will happen, and you can either remember the internals or take a picture before going on. It will help as you put it all back together.

    Spring blasters are rather simple to modify. The general thing to do is replace the barrel with one more suited to the task. For guns with low air delivery, such as pistols, you most likely want a barrel that is slightly tight for your dart. For guns that deliver air slower but in greater amounts, such as old arrow shooting blasters, a tight fit that telescopes into a looser one works well. For reference, look at Cxwq's Darts and Barrels article on this site. Now, you also want to remove any air restriction that gets in the way of air flow. Make sure that the dart cannot get sucked into the plunger tube, however. If your barrel is directly connected, you may want a piece of brass or plastic at the back to prevent the dart from getting in there. Another common thing to do is either replace the spring with a stronger one or add rubber bands to the cocking handle outside the gun. This way, the plunger snaps forwards faster, generating a faster airflow.

    Air guns are likewise easy. Don't be daunted by the seemingly complicated internals or ideas, it's actually quite simple. One of the main mods is to take the pump and fill the hole at the back of the pump handle with hot glue. This hole prevents over-pumping, and reduces the amount you can pump a gun. If you do this, make sure you don't pump it too much. When it starts getting hard, stop. Barrels for air guns should have a neutral fit in most cases with the dart. A fairly long barrel is good, though.

    Hopefully, this has helped you understand modding basics and given you some useful hints in your modding process. Remember, we want to see your mods, so make sure you have good descriptions and pictures to match. It will make your mod seem much more professional.

    http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1634



    Go ahead and open your gun up. You first have to take the cap off of the handle where the batteries go. Keep up with anything that flies out, including springs and a small square washer at the bottom of the handle. The gun is simple, once you get past the electronics, but they aren't that complicated. The internals are all screwed in. You may want to leave the light in; you may want to take it out. I'm leaving it in for now, to shine in people's eyes and such when I get bored. It adds a bit of weight to the gun, too, so that may effect your judgement in either way.

    I was happy to see a heavy spring and well lubed gun again.

    The plunger and barrel, however, were odd. It broke into quite a few pieces. It's simple to put it back together, though. You will notice that the plunger has a "cap" on it. Take it off, and the end of the shaft could knock your barrel out. You may want to drill a large hole in the middle of it for a better air path, I belive the blaster is already adequate. I left it in, and looked at the next piece. It was a small spring and pronged thing, some stupid air restriction, obviously. I did away with it.

    See this thing? When I did, I knew right away what to do.

    You should have felt that coming. Now, we just stick a barrel on here.

    I used PETG, you can also use 9/16" Brass for a similair performance. The PETG was lighter, and I didn't have the majority of my tools with me, so I was limited on what I could do. The stock darts fit suprisingly well into this PETG. I would suggest you contact IronRhino for some. Either way, a good 4" will do you well.

    Stick it on, and apply glue. Epoxy would do so much better, but like I said, I didn't have most of my stuff.

    Plop your new barrel assembly and the plunger cap back on the gun. I would add more glue in between, because we are going to remove everything in front of this that made it fit nice.

    Stick it all back in there, it's not too hard. The PETG fits nice, I added electrical tape for hold and protection. I also fit the orange thing at
    the end of the barrel back on to keep it straight and hold it some more. It's a snug, but comfortable fit.

    There. The Nite Finder, with it's new barrel. I need to stick rubber bands on there. It's getting average 52' right now, which is impressive. I think bands will add a few more feet.

    I cut these ammo holders off, so I could fit the blaster in my pocket easier.. This is a small blaster, much smaller than the Tech Target. The ranges, again, are comparable to a Lock'n'Load, and it feels good, is incredibly cheap, and has a light on it. I hope you guys like this gun. It's cool, but I don't think I'm going to use it myself, not just yet anyways. I still can't put the LnL down. I don't think it has the range or power, but it is much more accurate (without the light), and the grip seems to melt into your hands. A steal for the price and simplicity of the mod. Enjoy.

    http://nerfhaven.com/mods/rags_nitefinder/

    THe pics aren't working though. Mad
    Slayer_of_OnE
    Slayer_of_OnE
    Admin

    Number of posts : 145
    Age : 26
    Location : Naperville, IL, 60532
    Registration date : 2008-12-11

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    Post  Slayer_of_OnE on Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:28 pm

    Sorry for necroeing, but my project is over.

    Thanks to Cna, I recieved a 98 percent on the overall project and an 85 on the presentation aspect, which included a kickass NF write up video. I would post it, but Windows Movie Maker was being a bitch, so I was not able to.

    Thanks again,

    -So1


    _________________
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    Also, be sure to put links in your NH signatures!
    cannotaim
    cannotaim
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    Number of posts : 127
    Age : 25
    Registration date : 2008-12-27

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    Post  cannotaim on Thu Jun 18, 2009 12:09 am

    This should be closed now.

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